(after having unpacked /usr/share/usb_modeswitch/configPack.tar.gz to a temporary directory)
Update 2016-01-19: back in 2014 I reported this to the maintainers of various "modeswitch databases", and it seems it's made it's way into the Debian/Ubuntu version at least, according to the changelog (version 20151101-1).
I hate having to set clocks. Most of our clocks at home get the time from Internet or from the DCF77 time signal.
The problem with the DCF77 time signal is that it is quite sensitive to environmental noise from lamps or other appliances, and the reception inside buildings can be problematic in some places.
I recently installed a clock in such a location. Using Udo Klein's DCF77 analysis tool it was clear that it would be nearly impossible to get the clock to work properly as initially planned, so I started looking for solutions:
- bigger antenna (eg this one)
- external antenna
- external receiver
- different time source
For different reasons, the only viable option seemed to be a different time source. But I did not want to change the clock design. While researching a solution, I came across the Chronvertor. Although this would allow to run the clock without DCF77 signal, the clock would still have to be set from time to time (due to lack of precision of the RTC, but at least twice per year for DST adjustments), so I quickly dismissed that option. However it provided inspiration for what I eventually ended up building: a NTP to DCF77 "adapter".
I had experimented previously with the TimeNTP example from the Arduino Time library, and there was plenty of information available online about the DCF77 signal, so this quickly appeared to be a viable option. This is the result: ntp2dcf.ino.
After some trial and error I was able to reliably print parts with nylon (618 from taulman 3D) on my MakerBot Cupcake.
I used the following temperature settings:
Extruder: 245°C
Heated build platform: 60°C
I had a lot of trouble getting the prints to stick to the platform. Here is what works for me: 3M blue painter's tape, topped with a thin layer of glue from an UHU stick. I enable the "raft" option for all prints. The raft adheres very well to the blue tape covered with glue, so well that I have to replace the tape for each print.
I use ReplicatorG 0037 to control the printer and the integrated Skeinforge 35 to produce the gcode. Here is my custom profile to print Taulman 618 Nylon: SF35-cupcake-HBP-nylon.tar.gz.
1. Heat the nozzle to 200C 2. Run Nylon filament through the extruder 3. With Nylon in the nozzle, reduce the temperature to 135C, and once there let it sit for a minute 4. Slowly but firmly work the filament out of the top of the extruder
This has worked very well for me a couple of times. Here is how the filament looks like when I take it out of the extruder (repeat steps 1-4 until it comes out clean):
